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Never before in men’s style has looking rugged been such an expensive proposition: art directors and architecture students jaunt around the city in jackets from Woolrich Woolen Mills or Pendleton Meets Opening Ceremony and skinny black jeans scrunched up at the bottom over bulky boots from the Nom de Guerre-Red Wing collaboration. But what of the thousands more struggling somewhat further down the economic ladder? They’re underemployed, maybe, or outright unemployed. They’re poorer, or just plain poor. Still, they want to appear ever-so-slightly calloused, too.

I’d tried on a Carhartt coverall made of unwashed canvas duck ($99), stiff enough to repel a knife attack, resilient enough to survive feats of physical labor I had no intention of performing. It was so restrictive as to be slimming. It made a scruffy noise when I moved too much.

A woman came out of the adjacent dressing room and regarded me. Recommended bending and moving in it to make sure it would be comfortable. Said it’s worth getting on the ground, to see how the knees feel.

But over the last two years, he said, a more fashion-oriented customer has been frequenting the store, which moved from its original spot in the flower district to its current location at Chelsea’s eastern ridge in 1999.

If you’re living in the mid to late ’80s, ironically or otherwise, there is a small stock of 550s, wide in the seat, awkwardly tapered toward the bottom. I tried them on and achieved the look of a refugee from “Club MTV .” The generous salesclerk who pulled them for me, after talking about the certain strain of older customer for whom this cut is the standby, cocked his head a little and declared, “You might as well put on your Pro-Keds and go break dancing with your friends.”

Still, not everything here screams to be used roughly; plenty is intended for use off the clock. There are shelves of stacked Levi’s ($30 to $35, mostly) shooting up 20 feet along the left wall, useful if you’ve forgotten how 501s differ from 5o5s. (I picked up a pair of the latter in black corduroy, an unfussy basic.)

The fortunes of Dave’s are tied far less to fashion than to other factors. Levy said, though it only slightly offset a larger problem facing the city: the slowdown in the building market. The recent cold snap was a boon, Mr. Construction workers don’t need new clothes if nothing’s being constructed.

Success.

For them, there’s Dave’s New York, now in its 48th year of selling work wear. “We don’t do high fashion, don’t do really expensive,” Bob Levy, one of the store’s owners, said last week.

“There’s a lot of different slices of the pie,” Mr. Levy said.

On a recent afternoon, shoppers included a dust-covered construction worker speaking in Spanish with a salesclerk (four salesmen here speak French, five Spanish and one works “the Slavic languages,” Mr. Levy said); a tourist couple pressing for details on duffel bags ($16 to $25, in varying sizes); and a slight, prim gentleman with a fastidious gleaming haircut straight out of “Inglourious Basterds,” spotless expensive oxfords and a motorcycle helmet tucked under his arm.

Then she asked, totally credulously, “What kind of work do you do?”

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